While these collections were well executed and are certainly beautiful to gaze upon, some missed the chance to capitalize on what a Spring/Summer collection really means: COLORS & PRINTS. That’s what S/S is all about after all: finally being able to slough off the many dark and often dismal layers we are forced to wear during the cold brutal months of winter. There was an abundance of chill and a lack of warmth to some of these collections. And isn’t warmth what we look forward to for Spring & Summer?
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Rolando Santana
“Neutral, modern-day, Grace Kelly” is the perfect tag-line for this collection. There was plentiful usage of demure textures, soft metallics, neutrals and billowy fabrics accompanied by sleek evening looks and ponytails with footwear co-designed by shoe giant Manolo Blahnik. The sage & silver sequin sleeveless jumper was very reminiscent of Studio 54’s heyday. The standout was a white, gray and black chiffon floral print strapless gown with a light diagonal ruffle from the shoulder to the hip on the ruched bodice.
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Victor de Souza
Reflective, mints and pastels mingling with space-age cuts, chandelier headpieces, and hair that was a cross between a slicked-back chignon and a beehive characterized the look of this collection. As if Rolando Santana and Victor de Souza had collaborated together, the color palette was a mix of icy pink, blue, sage and the once again metallics. The most exciting things about these designs are in the details. Futuristic tailoring details such as the cut-out and raised shoulder piece on a design that could be a bold wedding gown. The standout was a frilly, fluffy sea foam green strapless dress that seemed to float.
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Raul Peñaranda “Hope”
Full length gowns and asymmetrical dresses in the color palette shared by the previous two Latino designers were walking the runway for Raul Peñaranda. He used turquoise as his one splash of color for his collection. The texture of the fabrics had an overall softappearance with the occasional heavier sequin or satin. Sleeveless scoop, square and plunging V-neckline dresses with thin waist belts gave slim silhouettes. The standout was a peachy beige asymmetrical dress with cap sleeves and bursts of bright gold sequins throughout.
Pictures of “Hope”: Click here
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ZERO + Maria Cornejo
Hello color! A color wheel of modern mono-chrome looks dominated the runway here. It was a warm welcome since with the previous three designers lacked the warmth that color delivers. Off the shoulder, draped dresses, clean lines and asymmetrical pieces with the occasional bursting print strutting down the catwalk gave this collection a feel that any graphic or interior designer would be pleased to clothe themselves in. One of many standouts was a black leather blouse and skirt with a Palatinate blue diagonal piping, cuffs and lining with flattened collar and hook closure.
Pictures of the show here.
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Ela Acosta “G5”
Dreamcatchers meet Adam Ant meets Tokyo’s Harajuku District was the aesthetic at Acosta’s show. Wildly teased updos with strips of sheer fabric hanging and braided into the models hair accompanied by sheer and shiny aquatic fabrics gave this collection a high street marine vibe. One of the standouts was a black and white op art print bolero jacket and Bermuda shorts that could be worn by so many of Tokyo’s cutting edge fashion conscious inhabitants.
Video of “G5” here.
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Carlos Campos
“Color Blocking Teddy Boys on Safari” fits this colorful menswear show perfectly. Not only did Carlos Campos infuse the Aztec, Incan and Mayan heritage of Central and South America in his collection, he also used wonderfully colorful shades to give men something snazzy to wear next Spring & Summer. The models oozed a cultured retro look especially when paired with the two-tone ethnic canvas print and leather upper oxfords and woven Incan sash belts. The pima cotton made these pieces look as crisp as the colors they came in. The standout was an evergreen straw fedora with matching shirt, khaki bomber with evergreen cuffs, Incan sash belted chinos and sand-colored, two-tone ethnic canvas oxfords.
Pictures of Carlos Campos’ show here.